Florentina Darmas prepares sarmale, a Roma delicacy of cabbage rolls stuffed with rice and ground meat, for the Gipsy Queens food stand, at the Astra 19 social center in Rome.

Florentina Darmas prepares sarmale, a Roma delicacy of cabbage rolls stuffed with rice and ground meat, for the Gipsy Queens food stand, at the Astra 19 social center in Rome, July 3, 2016. A group of women began the Gipsy Queens cooking business with hopes to better their lives and leave the overcrowded and insalubrious camp in Rome where they currently live. (Gianni Cipriano/The New York Times)

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